Home Inspection Walkthrough Checklist
Buyer's-side workflow for attending the home inspection, reviewing the inspector's report, and submitting any objections within the contract's inspection contingency period. Run by the buyer's agent with support from the transaction coordinator.
Pre-Inspection Preparation
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Confirm inspection date and contingency deadline
Cross-check the inspection date against the contract's inspection-period expiration. Build in at least a 2-day buffer between the inspection and the objection deadline so the buyer has time to review the report and decide on repair requests. Missing the objection deadline by even one day waives the buyer's right to object.
Collects date -
Coordinate access with the listing agent
Schedule the access window in ShowingTime or the local equivalent. Confirm whether utilities are on — gas, water, and electric must all be active for a full inspection. Sellers occasionally turn off gas in vacant homes; an inspector cannot test the furnace without it.
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Brief the buyer on inspection scope and limits
Set expectations on what a general home inspection covers and what it does not — sewer scope, radon, mold, chimney, pool, and pest are typically separate specialty inspections. Encourage the buyer to attend the final 30 minutes for the inspector's verbal walkthrough.
Exterior Inspection
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Inspect roof, flashing, and chimney
Note shingle age, granular wear, lifted or missing tabs, valley wear, and chimney crown condition. Roofs nearing end-of-life are a common renegotiation point — flag estimated remaining life, not just defects.
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Check siding, trim, and exterior paint
For pre-1978 homes, peeling exterior paint triggers EPA lead-based paint disclosure considerations. Inspect for rot at trim corners, behind downspouts, and where siding meets grade.
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Test exterior doors and window seals
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Verify gutters, downspouts, and drainage
Confirm downspouts discharge at least 4-6 feet from the foundation. Negative grading and short downspouts are the leading cause of basement moisture issues flagged later in the structural section.
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Walk the driveway, walkways, and lot grading
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Check porches, decks, and railings
Verify ledger-board attachment to the house, joist-hanger hardware, and railing height (36" residential / 42" if more than 30" above grade in most jurisdictions). Deck failures from improper ledger attachment are a documented safety concern.
Interior Inspection
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Inspect walls, floors, and trim
Look for diagonal drywall cracks at door corners (settlement indicators), cupping or staining on hardwood (moisture), and squeaks (subfloor fasteners). Patch-paint patterns can suggest prior repairs the seller didn't disclose.
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Check ceilings for stains and cracks
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Test interior doors and window operation
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Operate the fireplace and inspect the stairs
Confirm damper operation, hearth extension, and visible flue condition. A separate Level II chimney inspection is typically recommended on any wood-burning fireplace before close — note that recommendation in the buyer's report.
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Run all major appliances included in the sale
Cycle the dishwasher, run the disposal, test all stovetop burners and the oven, and confirm the refrigerator's icemaker. Cross-reference what's running against the included-appliances list in the contract — the kitchen demo unit doesn't always match what conveys.
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Test plumbing fixtures and electrical outlets
Structural and Mechanical Systems
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Examine foundation for cracks and settlement
Distinguish hairline shrinkage cracks from horizontal or stair-step cracks indicating active movement. Anything wider than 1/4" or showing displacement should trigger a structural-engineer referral, which is a separate inspection the buyer pays for within the contingency window.
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Inspect framing, insulation, and vapor barriers
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Walk the crawl space or basement
Look for efflorescence on foundation walls, rust at the bottom of support posts, sump pump condition, and any signs of prior water intrusion. In crawl spaces, note vapor barrier coverage and standing water — both common in older homes and frequent objection items.
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Climb the attic and check roof underside
Inspect for daylight at penetrations, dark staining on sheathing (prior leaks or condensation), insulation depth and coverage, and bathroom-fan termination. Fans dumping into the attic instead of through the roof are a common defect with mold implications.
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Test HVAC heating and cooling cycles
Note furnace and AC manufacture dates from the data plates — a 20+ year-old system is a renegotiation point even when functioning. AC compressors should not be tested below 60°F outdoor temp; document the limitation if the inspection is in winter.
Safety Systems
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Test smoke and CO detector function
Many states (MA, CA, NY, others) require certified detector compliance at transfer — sometimes documented with a fire-department certificate. Confirm whether your state has a transfer-of-occupancy requirement and which party is responsible.
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Inspect the electrical panel and visible wiring
Recalled or problem panels (Federal Pacific Stab-Lok, Zinsco, Challenger) are routinely flagged by insurers and may be uninsurable without replacement. Aluminum branch wiring on pre-1972 homes is another insurer red flag — note panel manufacturer and any visible aluminum.
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Verify GFCI and AFCI outlet protection
GFCI required at kitchens, bathrooms, exterior, garage, and within 6 feet of any sink under current code. AFCI required in most living areas in newer construction. Older homes are typically grandfathered, but missing protection is still a buyer-leverage item.
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Inspect handrails, guardrails, and stair risers
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Inspect pool, spa, and gate compliance
Verify self-closing, self-latching gates and barrier height per local code (often 4-5 feet minimum). Many states impose pool-safety transfer requirements with insurer implications. If the home has a pool, recommend a separate pool inspection — general inspectors typically disclaim pool equipment.
Inspection Outcome and Follow-Up
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Receive the inspector's written report
Reports typically arrive within 24 hours of the inspection. Save to the transaction file in Dotloop or SkySlope under the inspection-period folder. Forward to the buyer with a brief framing note — raw reports without context can over-alarm first-time buyers.
Collects file -
Review findings with the buyer
Sort findings into three buckets: safety/structural defects worth pursuing, deferred-maintenance items the buyer should accept as part of homeownership, and informational notes. Capture the buyer's go/no-go on objections — this drives whether the next steps fire.
Collects list Collects paragraph -
Draft the repair request or objection letter
Use the state-promulgated objection or amendment form — never a free-form email. Specify each item with the corresponding report page reference and the requested remedy: repair by licensed contractor, credit at closing, or price reduction. Vague language ('fix electrical issues') gives sellers room to under-perform.
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Submit the objection within the contingency period
Deliver via the contract-specified method (most often eSignature platform with read receipt). Confirm listing-agent acknowledgment in writing. Submitting on the deadline day with no acknowledgment is a recurring source of disputes — give yourself one business day of buffer.
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Log resolution and release the inspection contingency
Once seller response is negotiated, execute the resolution amendment and update the transaction file. Confirm any agreed repairs include a pre-closing re-inspection clause so the buyer can verify completion before final walkthrough.
Collects list
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