Home Inspection Walkthrough Checklist

Cross-check the inspection date against the contract's inspection-period expiration. Build in at least a 2-day buffer between the inspection and the objection deadline so the buyer has time to review the report and decide on repair requests. Missing the objection deadline by even one day waives the buyer's right to object.

Schedule the access window in ShowingTime or the local equivalent. Confirm whether utilities are on — gas, water, and electric must all be active for a full inspection. Sellers occasionally turn off gas in vacant homes; an inspector cannot test the furnace without it.

Set expectations on what a general home inspection covers and what it does not — sewer scope, radon, mold, chimney, pool, and pest are typically separate specialty inspections. Encourage the buyer to attend the final 30 minutes for the inspector's verbal walkthrough.

Note shingle age, granular wear, lifted or missing tabs, valley wear, and chimney crown condition. Roofs nearing end-of-life are a common renegotiation point — flag estimated remaining life, not just defects.

For pre-1978 homes, peeling exterior paint triggers EPA lead-based paint disclosure considerations. Inspect for rot at trim corners, behind downspouts, and where siding meets grade.

Confirm downspouts discharge at least 4-6 feet from the foundation. Negative grading and short downspouts are the leading cause of basement moisture issues flagged later in the structural section.

Verify ledger-board attachment to the house, joist-hanger hardware, and railing height (36" residential / 42" if more than 30" above grade in most jurisdictions). Deck failures from improper ledger attachment are a documented safety concern.

Look for diagonal drywall cracks at door corners (settlement indicators), cupping or staining on hardwood (moisture), and squeaks (subfloor fasteners). Patch-paint patterns can suggest prior repairs the seller didn't disclose.

Confirm damper operation, hearth extension, and visible flue condition. A separate Level II chimney inspection is typically recommended on any wood-burning fireplace before close — note that recommendation in the buyer's report.

Cycle the dishwasher, run the disposal, test all stovetop burners and the oven, and confirm the refrigerator's icemaker. Cross-reference what's running against the included-appliances list in the contract — the kitchen demo unit doesn't always match what conveys.

Distinguish hairline shrinkage cracks from horizontal or stair-step cracks indicating active movement. Anything wider than 1/4" or showing displacement should trigger a structural-engineer referral, which is a separate inspection the buyer pays for within the contingency window.

Look for efflorescence on foundation walls, rust at the bottom of support posts, sump pump condition, and any signs of prior water intrusion. In crawl spaces, note vapor barrier coverage and standing water — both common in older homes and frequent objection items.

Inspect for daylight at penetrations, dark staining on sheathing (prior leaks or condensation), insulation depth and coverage, and bathroom-fan termination. Fans dumping into the attic instead of through the roof are a common defect with mold implications.

Note furnace and AC manufacture dates from the data plates — a 20+ year-old system is a renegotiation point even when functioning. AC compressors should not be tested below 60°F outdoor temp; document the limitation if the inspection is in winter.

Many states (MA, CA, NY, others) require certified detector compliance at transfer — sometimes documented with a fire-department certificate. Confirm whether your state has a transfer-of-occupancy requirement and which party is responsible.

Recalled or problem panels (Federal Pacific Stab-Lok, Zinsco, Challenger) are routinely flagged by insurers and may be uninsurable without replacement. Aluminum branch wiring on pre-1972 homes is another insurer red flag — note panel manufacturer and any visible aluminum.

GFCI required at kitchens, bathrooms, exterior, garage, and within 6 feet of any sink under current code. AFCI required in most living areas in newer construction. Older homes are typically grandfathered, but missing protection is still a buyer-leverage item.

Verify self-closing, self-latching gates and barrier height per local code (often 4-5 feet minimum). Many states impose pool-safety transfer requirements with insurer implications. If the home has a pool, recommend a separate pool inspection — general inspectors typically disclaim pool equipment.

Reports typically arrive within 24 hours of the inspection. Save to the transaction file in Dotloop or SkySlope under the inspection-period folder. Forward to the buyer with a brief framing note — raw reports without context can over-alarm first-time buyers.

Sort findings into three buckets: safety/structural defects worth pursuing, deferred-maintenance items the buyer should accept as part of homeownership, and informational notes. Capture the buyer's go/no-go on objections — this drives whether the next steps fire.

Use the state-promulgated objection or amendment form — never a free-form email. Specify each item with the corresponding report page reference and the requested remedy: repair by licensed contractor, credit at closing, or price reduction. Vague language ('fix electrical issues') gives sellers room to under-perform.

Deliver via the contract-specified method (most often eSignature platform with read receipt). Confirm listing-agent acknowledgment in writing. Submitting on the deadline day with no acknowledgment is a recurring source of disputes — give yourself one business day of buffer.

Once seller response is negotiated, execute the resolution amendment and update the transaction file. Confirm any agreed repairs include a pre-closing re-inspection clause so the buyer can verify completion before final walkthrough.