Annual Rental Property Inspection

Annual unit inspection a property manager runs to verify habitability, document condition, and confirm life-safety equipment. Conditional logic flexes the bedroom, bathroom, basement, and exterior sections to match the unit configuration.

11 sections 44 steps Collects data
1

Unit Profile & Entry Notice

  1. Confirm the bedroom count
    • Pull the lease and floor plan to verify how many bedrooms the unit actually has — den or bonus rooms used as bedrooms by the tenant should be inspected as bedrooms. The selection here drives which bedroom sections the checklist shows.

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  2. Confirm the bathroom count
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  3. Note whether the unit has a basement
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  4. Note whether the unit has a garage or exterior areas
    • Mark Yes for any private garage, deck, patio, yard, or driveway the tenant maintains. Shared common areas in a multifamily building are inspected separately and are not in scope here.

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  5. Send the tenant written entry notice
    • Most state landlord-tenant acts require 24 to 48 hours of advance written notice before entering an occupied unit for a non-emergency inspection. Send via the lease's notice-of-record method (email, text, or posted notice per the lease) and save a copy in the tenant file. Skipping this step is the most common reason an annual inspection becomes a habitability dispute.

2

Living Room & Common Areas

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
    • Look for water staining on the ceiling (roof or upstairs unit leaks), nail pops and drywall damage on walls, and carpet wear or hard-floor damage that exceeds normal wear and tear. Photograph anything that may need to be charged at move-out.

  2. Test windows, blinds, and entry door locks
    • Operate every window — sashes should open, lock, and stay open without props. Confirm the deadbolt and any secondary locks function. A non-locking entry door is a habitability issue and should be ticketed for same-week repair.

  3. Verify outlets, switches, and HVAC registers
  4. Test the smoke detector and replace the battery
    • Press the test button until the alarm sounds. Replace the 9V battery regardless of remaining charge — annual replacement is the standard. Detectors older than 10 years (check the manufacture date on the back) must be replaced entirely; sealed 10-year units are now required at turnover in many states.

3

Kitchen

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
  2. Open cabinets and check sink plumbing for leaks
    • Pull anything stored under the sink and look for active drips, water staining on the cabinet base, or warped particleboard. Slow drips at the P-trap or supply lines are the single most common kitchen finding and are cheap to fix before they become a base-cabinet replacement.

  3. Run the stove, oven, and range hood
    • Light each burner, turn the oven to 350°F, and run the hood fan and light. A non-functioning hood that vents into the unit (rather than outside) is common in older buildings — note it as a ventilation deficiency.

  4. Test the refrigerator, dishwasher, and disposal
  5. Test the smoke and CO detectors
    • Kitchens with gas appliances or attached garages require a working CO detector within 10 feet of any sleeping area in most state codes. Test both alarm types, replace batteries, and log the test in the tenant file.

4

Primary Bedroom

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
  2. Test windows, blinds, and closet hardware
    • Bedroom windows are egress windows in most jurisdictions — they must open fully without tools. A painted-shut or stuck bedroom window is a fire-code violation, not a cosmetic issue.

  3. Verify outlets, lighting, and HVAC register
  4. Test the smoke detector and replace the battery
    • State codes require a working smoke detector inside every sleeping room. A missing or disabled bedroom detector is the most-cited finding in HUD HQS and Section 8 inspections.

5

Second Bedroom

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
  2. Test windows, blinds, and closet hardware
  3. Verify outlets, lighting, and HVAC register
  4. Test the smoke detector and replace the battery
6

Third Bedroom

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
  2. Test windows, blinds, and closet hardware
  3. Verify outlets, lighting, and HVAC register
  4. Test the smoke detector and replace the battery
7

Primary Bathroom

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
    • Look closely at the ceiling for staining (sign of a leak from above) and at corners and behind the toilet for active mold. Visible mold in a bathroom is a habitability defense in most states and needs to be ticketed for remediation, not painted over.

  2. Run the sink, shower, and tub for leaks
    • Run hot and cold at every fixture for at least 30 seconds. Confirm hot water arrives within a reasonable time and that the shower diverter holds. Check under the sink for active drips while water runs.

  3. Flush the toilet and check the tank seal
  4. Test the exhaust fan and inspect tile, grout, and caulking
    • The exhaust fan should pull a tissue against the grille. Failed grout and caulking at the tub-wall joint are the most common moisture-intrusion finding — re-caulk before water gets behind the surround and rots the framing.

8

Second Bathroom

  1. Inspect walls, ceiling, and flooring
  2. Run the sink, shower, and tub for leaks
  3. Flush the toilet and check the tank seal
  4. Test the exhaust fan and inspect tile, grout, and caulking
9

Basement

  1. Inspect walls and floor for moisture or mold
    • Efflorescence (white mineral staining on the foundation), darkened drywall along the bottom plate, or a musty smell all point to chronic water intrusion. Note the suspected source — grading, gutters, or a foundation crack — so the work order goes to the right vendor.

  2. Test the sump pump and floor drains
    • Pour a bucket of water into the sump pit until the float trips and the pump runs. Confirm the discharge runs outside, not back into the foundation. Pour water down floor drains to verify the trap holds and isn't dry (dry traps let sewer gas into the unit).

  3. Inspect the water heater and exposed plumbing
    • Note the water heater's manufacture date — units over 10 years should be on the capex replacement list. Check the T&P relief valve discharge pipe is correctly routed and look for corrosion or active drips at supply unions.

10

Exterior, Garage & Grounds

  1. Test the garage door opener and auto-reverse safety
    • Place a 2x4 flat on the floor in the door's path and close the door — federal UL 325 standards require the door to reverse on contact. A failed auto-reverse is a personal-injury liability and needs same-week service.

  2. Walk the deck, patio, and exterior stairs
    • Probe deck boards and railings for soft spots and confirm railings don't move when pushed. Deck-collapse claims are common and largely preventable with annual inspection of the ledger board and post connections.

  3. Inspect the lawn, driveway, and parking area
  4. Inspect exterior door seals and weatherstripping
11

Safety Sign-Off & Report Submission

  1. Verify fire extinguisher charge and inspection tag
    • Multifamily common-area extinguishers need an annual licensed inspection tag (NFPA 10). Check the gauge is in the green and the inspection sticker is current; expired tags fail fire-marshal walkthroughs.

  2. Walk the attic, hallways, and interior stairs
    • Attic check is for roof-leak staining on the underside of the decking, daylight visible at the eaves, and rodent activity. Stairs must have a continuous handrail and uniform riser height — a missing handrail is a slip-and-fall liability.

  3. Submit the signed inspection report
    • Save the signed report and all photos to the tenant file in AppFolio, Buildium, or Yardi. Open work orders for any habitability findings the same day — under most state warranty-of-habitability rules, the clock on the landlord's repair obligation starts when the manager has notice, including notice from their own inspection.

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Steps 44
Category Property Management
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